Let me tell you a story about internal demons. The Rishikesh-Delhi bus stopped for a roadside break, with burgers and ice-cream instead of the makeshift food shack I expected to see. Bad for my slightly hurt feelings of nostalgia, good for the belief that things are able to change at all. I walked around and … Continue reading Oppression, inside
I'm really regretting that I spent the last two nights in a hotel. It was affordable, sure enough (just over 10€ per night), but I'd done what an Indian person would have done. Okay, I don't think an Indian girl would've hired a tuk tuk driver at 4.50am to drive into town and help find … Continue reading The joys of backpacker hostels and other differences between foreign and Indian tourists
I'm back in Rishikesh, where I was last seven years ago. Back then, I was bustling with hardly contained enthusiasm, gasping at the hippies and the holy Ganga, rummaging through colourful Nepalese garments. Now, I am embarrassed by Americans dressing up like priests, and wear my black jeans and shirt because that feels like what … Continue reading Skylights on the Ganga
The morning after My most immediate impression right now is the slight spice-induced queasiness that stems from the pre-wedding function I attended yesterday night. Not that any of the food was bad - on the contrary, it was amazing to taste some old favourites like pani puri, phav baji, and aloo tikki, as well as … Continue reading Post Pre-wedding Post
I thought arriving would be more of a relief. Instead, it's the middle of the night, and I'm wide awake and alone in a shabby dorm (which is either overpriced, or the exchange rate has changed dramatically since 2014, or the rest of the place really is that great to make up for it). But! … Continue reading Orange Delhi night
This is what I'm listening to while writing: https://youtu.be/dnxCxHLAqn8 I noticed that I'm confused. Wait? I'll be in Delhi this Thursday? People had been asking whether I was planning on travelling ("now that you're not doing anything, really"). I wasn't. Now it's happening anyway. I was preoccupied installing myself in Berlin, which has worked pretty … Continue reading Noticing confusion: India? Again?